I
smile at our guide's warning and enter the lush jungle growing inside
Hang Son Doong, a three-million-year-old cave in central Vietnam.
Water
drips from a gaping scar in the ceiling over 100 meters above us. A
spectacular sunbeam starts to creep down the side of the serrated
cliffs.
The shrill call of birds and macaque monkeys echoes off the limestone, drifting in from the unseen world beyond the skylight.
"Watch
out for dinosaurs. That's what we called this place when we first
discovered it," caving expert Howard Limbert, elaborates. The
prehistoric atmosphere made the reference obvious.
We continue on, stepping deeper into the void that is considered by some to be the largest cave in the world.
Located in the heart of the
UNESCO-listed Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park in Vietnam's Quang Binh
province, Hang Son Doong is one of the most captivating adventures that
can be experienced in Southeast Asia.
More people have stood on the summit of Mount Everest than have witnessed the surreal beauty inside these enormous chambers.
Translated
as Mountain River Cave, it was first discovered in 1990 by Ho Khanh, a
local farmer who was seeking shelter from a passing storm in the jungle.
He
noticed clouds and the sound of an underground river gushing from a
large hole in the limestone, and reported his findings to the British
Caving Research Association (BCRA), who were stationed in Phong Nha at
the time.
Unfortunately Ho Khanh lost his bearings during his return, and the exact location of the cave remained lost for 18 years.
In
2008 while hunting for food he stumbled across the entrance again, and
returned the following year with Howard and Deb Limbert from the BCRA.
They
began the exploration of the cave, and in 2010 determined it to be the
largest ever discovered in terms of the size of its cross-section.
The news shook the caving world.
The expedition to Hang Son Doong
Stretching
more than five kilometers long and reaching heights of 200 meters, the
main cavern of Hang Son Doong is large enough to house an entire New
York City block.
In 2013 Hang Son Doong was opened to the public for the first time, with the adventure tour company Oxalis running the exclusive five-day expedition.
Limiting
the tour to only one operator has protected the cave from mass
development. Only 10 customers per departure are permitted. Tours run
once per week between February to August per year.
The eco-system inside Hang Son Doong is as unique as it is large, and it even has its own localized weather system.
Rare limestone cave pearls are scattered in dried pools, and the largest stalagmite ever found stands 80-meter tall.
Collapsed
ceilings have created openings known as dolines, allowing foliage to
grow inside the cave. Microscopic organisms thrive in the darkness.
The
journey to Hang Son Doong is not for the faint-hearted. Involving two
days of intense jungle trekking and river crossings to reach the
entrance, nights are spent camping inside the cave and the nearby Hang
En, now known to be the third largest cave in the world.
Once
inside hikers are expected to abseil, climb, crawl and swim through
underground rivers to arrive at the end of the cave. It's an adventure
like no other.
Despite the physical
demands guests are perfectly cared for, two caving experts, three local
guides, two chefs, two park rangers and 20 porters join every
expedition.
The scale of the
operation is phenomenal, and this ensures everyone's safety and welfare,
along with the preservation of the cave, is looked after with expert
precision.
Besides the fantastic experience and unique beauty of this adventure, the journey to Hang Son Doong has resulted in a growing industry that has improved the lives of many -- tourism.
The Quang Binh province has long been one of the poorest regions in the country, and was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War.
Unexploded ordnance are scattered throughout the fields and jungle, putting thousands of lives at risk every single day.
Many of the locals collect and dismantle these unexploded bombs, selling the dynamite and metal for scrap.
Countless
lives have been lost doing this dangerous practice, but for some there
were no other options to help feed their families.
When the colossal caves of Phong Nha were discovered travelers began arriving for the first time.
Villagers
embraced this new opportunity and started focusing on tourism. The
positive results has seen the local economy flourish.
New community homestays are being built, and the once-impoverished town has been given a new life.
The
recent discovery of 57 new caves has also excited the inhabitants of
Phong Nha, who have seen their small village quickly become the
adventure capital of Southeast Asia.
Passionate locals have created mountain biking, hiking, kayaking and eco-conservation tour companies to run alongside the caving.
Delicate ecosystem
However a new threat has emerged in recent years, which may compromise the integrity and environmental splendor of the area.
The
Vietnamese development company Sun Group has been pushing to build a
cable car to Hang Son Doong, which could potentially ferry 1,000
visitors an hour to the cave.
Staunch opposition from UNESCO and activist group Save Son Doong encouraged the Vietnamese government to temporarily halt the construction permits in 2015.
Some
argue that this increase in tourism will continue to benefit the local
community, while others fear for the destruction of the ecosystem that
increased traffic will bring.
Similar
projects on Mount Fansipan, the highest mountain in Vietnam, and in
Halong Bay have resulted in dramatic environmental damage.
Will history repeat itself with the world's largest cave?
The cable car development continues to loom in the background, and no one knows whether approval will eventually be given.
As
one of the last truly pristine environments in the region, Hang Son
Doong is a place so remarkable that it demands protection.
One can only hope that a sustainable and responsible decision is made in these critical months.
For
now the locals of Phong Nha relish in this new opportunity that the
colossal caves have given them, and Hang Son Doong remains as beautiful
as ever
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